Buying your first rabbits is an exciting step. But bringing them home is only the start.
The first 30 days matter a lot. This is when your new rabbits get used to their new home, learn your feeding routine, and (if they are healthy and mature) start to breed. Get this month right, and you set your farm up for success.
Many new farmers spend all their time buying rabbits, building cages, and buying feed. They forget the small things: how the rabbits travel to the farm, how they are handled, how fast their feed is changed, whether their house has enough fresh air, and when to start breeding them.
This guide walks you through exactly what to do, from the day you collect your rabbits to the end of their first month. If you’re still deciding whether rabbit farming is right for you, see Why Rabbit Farming in Kenya is Growing at an Incredible Pace.
Rabbit Choice Farms Ltd is East Africa’s leading supplier of quality rabbit breeders. We deliver countrywide in Kenya, we make rabbit hutches and cages, and we support farmers even after the sale. This guide is the same protocol we recommend to every farmer who buys from us.

Before Your Rabbits Arrive
Get everything ready before your rabbits get to the farm. If you’re setting up a commercial unit, see What Do I Need to Create a Commercial Rabbit Farm in Kenya? for a full checklist.
- Cages should be:
- Clean and dry
- Secure, with no sharp edges
- Big enough for the rabbit
- Out of direct rain and hot sun
- Well ventilated, with fresh air moving through, but no strong wind.
If you need cages, Rabbit Choice Farms also makes rabbit hutches for farmers.
- Water should be ready and clean before the rabbits arrive. This matters a lot right after a journey, because travel is stressful on a rabbit’s body.
- Do not change the feed suddenly. Find out what your rabbits were eating before you bought them. A rabbit that has just been caught, handled, and moved to a new place does not need a sudden new diet on top of that. Rabbits have a delicate gut and need plenty of fibre. A sudden feed change is one of the top causes of stomach problems in rabbits.
How to Transport Rabbits Properly
How you move your rabbits to the farm matters just as much as how you care for them once they arrive.
- Use a carrier with good airflow. Never use a sealed box, sack, or container with no air holes. Experts recommend a carrier at least 35 cm high so the rabbit can sit comfortably with its ears up.
- Don’t overcrowd the carrier. Too many rabbits in one box means more heat and more stress.
- Keep rabbits cool. Never leave a rabbit in a parked car in the sun. Travel when it’s cooler, keep air moving, and avoid unnecessary stops.
- Handle gently. Never lift a rabbit by its ears. Support its whole body, including its back end.
- Plan your trip. Collect, travel, arrive, settle. Avoid detours and delays.
Day One: What to Do When Rabbits Arrive
Think about what the rabbit has just been through: being caught, handled, packed, and driven somewhere new, with new smells and sounds. Your job now is simple: keep things calm.

- Put each rabbit gently into its clean cage. Let it rest. Don’t keep taking it out to show visitors or family.
- Give clean water right away. We recommend adding glucose and a multivitamin to the water on the first day (follow the product instructions or your vet’s advice). This helps support the rabbit while it settles in.
- Do not feed pellets on the first day. Give water and wilted forage instead, such as wilted sweet potato vines or wilted weeds like black jack. Do not give fresh-cut greens; always let them wilt first. Once the rabbit has settled, slowly bring in its normal pellets over the next few days.
- Leave the rabbits in peace. Watch quietly rather than handling them. Check that they are moving normally, drinking, eating, and breathing normally, and that their droppings look normal.
How to Mate Your Rabbits
Breeding is the heart of your rabbit business. Your does (female rabbits) produce the kits (baby rabbits) that you will sell as meat, breeding stock, or replacement rabbits. Without a proper breeding plan, you can spend money on feed and cages without getting enough rabbits to sell. If you haven’t chosen your breeds yet, see The Best Rabbit Breeds for Meat Production and How to Choose the Best Rabbit Breeds for Commercial Rabbit Farming.

- When to start mating: Healthy, mature rabbits can be mated starting on the second day after arrival. Don’t force a sick, weak, or very stressed rabbit to mate.
- Always take the doe to the buck, not the other way round. A buck (male rabbit) is protective of his own cage and mates better when the doe comes to him.
- Watch the mating. A successful mating usually ends with the buck falling or rolling off the doe. Let this happen three times before you take the doe back to her own cage. Don’t leave the pair alone together for long.
- One buck can serve about five does. This is a good ratio to plan around. As your farm grows, write down which buck mated which doe.
Keep simple records for every mating:
- Doe’s ID and buck’s ID
- Date of mating and how many times the buck fell
- Expected birth date
- Number of kits born and weaned
A simple record might look like this:
| Doe | Buck | Mating Date | Falls | Due Date | Kits Born | Kits Weaned |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| D-014 | B-03 | 12 Aug | 3 | 12 Sep | — | — |
This helps you know which does are actually productive.
- Mate the doe again after 10 days, but look at each doe individually. A doe that isn’t in good condition may need more time before her next mating. Good breeding isn’t about mating as often as possible; it’s about keeping does healthy enough to raise strong kits. For more on managing your breeding programme, see The Most Frequently Asked Questions On Commercial Rabbit Farming.
- Prepare the nesting box early. If the doe was mated on Day 1, put the nesting box in her cage around Day 25, well before she gives birth. It should be clean, dry, secure, and the right size. The doe will pull her own fur and arrange bedding once she has the box. Don’t disturb the nest once she has built it. For what to do once kits arrive, read What to Do When Your Rabbit Gives Birth and My Rabbit Just Gave Birth, What Should I Do?
Your First Month, Day by Day
| Day | What to do |
|---|---|
| Day 1 | Rabbits arrive and settle. Give clean water with glucose/multivitamin. No pellets yet. |
| Day 2 | Mate healthy, mature does. Watch for three falls, then return the doe to her cage. |
| Day 12 | Mate the doe again. |
| Day 25 (after mating) | Put the nesting box in the doe’s cage. |
| Near the due date | Check on the doe from a distance. Don’t disturb her. |
| After birth | Check the nest and kits. |
Weeks One to Four
Days 1–3: Focus on keeping things calm. Clean water, fresh air, clean cages, wilted forage (never fresh-cut), and minimal handling. Don’t add new feeds or supplements all at once, so if something goes wrong, you know what caused it.
Days 4–7: Start writing things down. For each rabbit, note its ID, breed, sex, purchase date, age, weight if you can, mating dates, and any health notes.
Week two onward, build a routine:
- Morning: Check water, feed, droppings, and general health.
- During the day: Watch for heat, fresh air, and direct sun on the cages.
- Evening: Check water, feed, and cage condition again.
You don’t need to watch your rabbits all day. You just need a routine that helps you notice quickly when something changes.
Feeding Your Rabbits
Good feeding is about more than fattening your rabbits. It supports growth, breeding, and healthy digestion.
- Fibre matters more than most farmers think. Rabbits need a lot of fibre to keep their gut moving properly. Vets recommend that roughly 15% of a rabbit’s diet be fibre, always available. Good sources are hay and wilted forage such as sweet potato vines or weeds like black jack. Always let forage wilt for a few hours before feeding it; never give it fresh-cut, as this is more likely to upset a rabbit’s stomach. Rabbits fed too little fibre are much more likely to develop stomach and gut problems.
- Bring in pellets slowly, both after the first day and any time you switch pellet brands. A sudden switch is one of the most common causes of digestive trouble in rabbits. Mature breeders need about 100g of pellets per day.
- Tip. Give your pellets in the afternoon and let rabbits eat plenty of hay in the morning hours.
- Don’t aim for maximum weight. Many farmers search for ways to make rabbits gain weight fast. For breeders, the goal is good body condition for healthy breeding, not extra fat. See How Can I Make My Rabbits Gain Weight Faster? for healthy growth guidance.
Fresh Air and Clean Cages
A rabbit house needs enough airflow to clear out heat, moisture, smell, and ammonia, without exposing rabbits to strong drafts. This matters even more in hot or humid parts of Kenya than in cooler highland areas, so adjust your housing to your local climate.
Clean your cages daily. Watch for wet floors, dirty water, dirty feeders, built-up droppings, and mouldy feed. A clean, dry cage also makes it much easier to notice when something is wrong with a rabbit.
Health: What to Watch For
Learn what “normal” looks like for your rabbits, so you notice quickly when something changes. Be concerned if a rabbit:
- Stops eating or drinking
- Produces fewer droppings than normal
- Becomes unusually inactive or weak
- Struggles to breathe
- Has discharge from the nose or eyes
- Has diarrhoea
- Sits hunched for a long time
- Has swelling or wounds
Two health problems are especially common in the first month, and worth knowing by name:
- Gut problems (gastrointestinal stasis). This happens when a rabbit’s gut slows down or stops, usually because of too little fibre, a sudden feed change, or stress. This is exactly why the first-day feeding steps above matter so much. Warning signs are less eating, fewer droppings, and a hunched posture.
- Coccidiosis. This is a parasite spread through droppings, and it mostly affects young and newly weaned rabbits. It spreads faster in crowded, damp, dirty cages. Feed and water from racks or hoppers rather than off the cage floor, keep bedding dry, and keep new rabbits separate from your existing stock for a couple of weeks. Additionally, give your kits Anticox the first week after weaning. Our animal health personnel will guide you on how to administer it properly.
If you bought your rabbits from Rabbit Choice Farms and notice any of these signs soon after they arrive, call us right away. Don’t wait to see if it gets better on its own. For anything serious, get a vet involved quickly.
Keeping Disease Off Your Farm
If you already have rabbits, be careful when bringing new ones in. Where possible, keep new rabbits separate from your existing herd while you watch their health for the first couple of weeks. Keep your equipment, feeders, and drinkers clean, limit unnecessary visitors, and keep sick rabbits away from healthy ones. This matters more, not less, as your farm grows.
After Weaning: What Comes Next
This guide covers the first month, up to birth. After that, kits are usually weaned (separated from their mother) at around four to six weeks old, and it’s best to separate them by sex so they don’t start breeding too early. This weaning period is also when coccidiosis risk is highest, so keep hygiene and good feed a priority here too. For the full post-birth process, see What to Do When Your Rabbit Gives Birth and My Rabbit Just Gave Birth, What Should I Do?
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Transporting rabbits in a poorly ventilated container
- Overcrowding the carrier
- Feeding pellets right on arrival instead of letting rabbits settle first
- Changing the whole diet suddenly
- Handling new rabbits too much
- Sealing the rabbit house instead of giving it fresh air
- Forgetting the water while focusing only on feed
- Not keeping breeding records
- Waiting until the last minute to prepare the nesting box
- Breeding without a clear plan for who will buy the kits
What You Should Have After One Month
By the end of month one, you should have: settled, healthy rabbits; a steady feeding routine; clean water; clean, well-ventilated cages; records for each rabbit; an active breeding plan with mating and due dates recorded; nesting boxes ready; and a habit of checking on your rabbits’ health every day.
Most importantly, you should now be thinking of rabbit farming as a business built on your breeding stock, not just a hobby of keeping rabbits.
Turning Breeders Into a Profitable Business
Once your does start producing kits, think about where you’ll sell them. This depends on your costs, how many rabbits you can produce, current market prices, and who your buyers will be.
You don’t have to find your own market at all. Rabbit Choice Farms offers contract farming, and we buy back rabbits directly from our farmers. Once your kits are born, they are usually ready to sell between 4 and 5 months old, once they reach an average weight of about 3 kg.
Here’s how the buy-back works:
- Delivery or pickup, your choice. You can deliver your rabbits to our facility in Joska, along Kangundo Road, or request a pickup.
- Minimum numbers for pickup. If we’re collecting from you, you need at least 30 rabbits if you’re within Nairobi, or at least 50 rabbits if you’re outside Nairobi.
- You get paid on the spot. We pay on collection or delivery, so there’s no waiting around for your money.
This means that as a contract farmer, your job is simply to raise healthy rabbits to the right weight and age. We take care of the market. Contact our office today to get started with contract farming and secure a guaranteed buyer for your kits.
Get Constant Support for Your Commercial Rabbit Farming Project
Starting a rabbit farm is easy. Running a successful one is what takes support. That’s why Rabbit Choice Farms Ltd doesn’t just sell you breeders and leave you to figure out the rest. We partner with farmers across Kenya and the wider East Africa region for the full life of their rabbit farming project.
What does Rabbit Choice Farms Ltd do? Here’s what you get:
- Quality breeders. Healthy, well-bred rabbits with good genetics, delivered countrywide, so your farm starts on a strong foundation.
- Insurance on your breeders in the first week. If a breeder you bought from us develops a problem within the first week, we’ve got you covered, so you’re not carrying that risk alone from day one.
- Continuous training. We don’t hand you a rabbit and disappear. We keep supporting you with practical guidance as your farm grows, from feeding and breeding to scaling up production.
- Disease management support. If your rabbits show signs of sickness, our team is on hand to help you figure out what’s wrong and what to do next, so small problems don’t turn into big losses.
- A guaranteed market for your rabbits. Through our contract farming programme, we buy back rabbits directly from our farmers once they’re ready, so you always have somewhere to sell, without needing to chase buyers yourself.
We also make rabbit hutches and cages, so you can set up your whole farm through one supplier.
Contact our office today to start your commercial rabbit farming project with a partner who supports you at every stage, from your first breeders to your first sale.
+254715626955/ +254752683530
Frequently Asked Questions
How should I transport rabbits to my farm? Use a clean, secure, well-ventilated carrier. Avoid overcrowding, direct sun, and unnecessary stops.
What should I give rabbits on their first day? Clean water with glucose and a multivitamin, plus hay or wilted forage (never fresh-cut). Wait before giving pellets.
When can I mate newly purchased rabbits? From the second day after arrival, if they are healthy and mature. Take the doe to the buck and let him fall three times before separating them.
How many does can one buck serve? About five does per buck.
When should I mate the doe again? About 10 days after the first mating, adjusted for her health and condition.
When should I put in the nesting box? Around Day 25 after mating, well before she is due.
What should I do if my new rabbit gets sick? If you bought it from Rabbit Choice Farms, call us immediately. If it looks serious, get a vet quickly.
Where can I buy rabbit breeders in Kenya or East Africa? Rabbit Choice Farms Ltd is East Africa’s leading supplier of quality rabbit breeders, with countrywide delivery, hutches, cages, and contract farming support.
Is rabbit farming profitable in Kenya? Yes, when farmers manage breeding, feed, health, housing, and markets well. See Is Rabbit Farming Profitable in Kenya? Full Cost and Profit Breakdown for more.
Sources: EFSA (European Food Safety Authority) guidance on rabbit transport welfare; MSD and Merck Veterinary Manuals on rabbit nutrition and disease; dvm360 on gastrointestinal disease in rabbits; Vets4Pets on coccidiosis in rabbits.





































