Rearing rabbits for meat has become a popular agricultural practice, particularly given the increasing demand for meat. 

2021 statistics indicate that over 570 million rabbits were slaughtered globally, resulting in approximately 860,000 tons of meat. This production is valued at $1.5 billion and continues to grow annually. 

Investing in rabbit rearing for meat production is thus a promising venture. To achieve optimal results, understanding the fundamentals of rabbit rearing is crucial.

In this article, we guide you through essential practices and considerations for successfully raising rabbits for meat.

Choosing the Right Breed and Stock

Although rabbits for meat are categorized as a commercial group of rabbits, you should keep in mind that not all breeds in this category are high-yielders. New Zealand White and California White are the best rabbit breeds for meat production, as they grow rapidly. 

California White

New Zealand White

Other breeds, such as the Palominos, Chinchillas, and Satins, may have unique colors, but they grow slowly, requiring more time for development. 

Once you’ve settled on your choice of breed, the next step is selecting your starting breeding stock. You can have a 1:3 or 1:5 ratio, meaning one buck for three does or one buck for five does. Although some farmers may recommend a higher ratio, a smaller ratio allows the bucks to have greater genetic diversity. 

Let’s look at key things to consider when choosing your breeding stock.

• Source from reputable breeders: Using established breeders, such as Rabbit Choice Farms, ensures that you obtain detailed records of the stock you are acquiring. You can even request to see the parents of the litter you want to purchase. This way, you’ll gain insights into how the young stock will look when they mature. 
• Check the kindling records: It’s tempting to acquire a generation with a history of producing a large litter. However, consider a doe with moderate kindling as the kits grow larger and more steadily. 
• Diversify your sources: If you’re starting with a large stock, consider visiting multiple breeders to ensure a diverse selection. This ensures better genetic diversity and minimizes the risk of getting stock with inbreeding and genetic flaws.
• Check for thick and sturdy bones: A rabbit with thicker bones can support more muscle weight. You can run your hands gently over the rabbit as a test for protruding bones. However, keep in mind that a young rabbit may not have similar muscle development to that of a mature rabbit, and their bones might protrude somewhat.

Setting Up Housing and Equipment

This comprises cages, feeders, and waterers. Ensure you follow the proper standards to make your rabbits comfortable and to avoid contracting unnecessary diseases. Let’s look at the essentials you need in detail.

Cages

When building your rabbit cages, the factors that come into play are cost, type of materials and their availability, climate, and your skill in setting up the equipment. You will need materials like:

• Wire mesh and BRC
• Tape
• Wire nippers
• J-clips and pliers
• Wooden or metal stands
• Measuring tape
• Galvanized sheets
• Monkey wire

Once your materials are ready, start laying out the cage dimensions, including its length, width, and height. The dimensions can be customized to your liking, but they vary depending on whether the cage is intended for a doe or a buck. 

Here’s a guide you can use to customize your own.

• Breeding doe/ fattening cage – 30″ * 24″ * 17″
• Breeding/ replacement buck- 18″ * 24″ * 17″
• Flooring -1″ * 1/2″ square mesh of 14-16 gauge
• Doors 15” * 15”
• Floor space: 2″ x 2″ (BRC to enhance support); overlay with monkey wire.
• Side and top- 3/4″ * 3/4″ wire mesh

When making your cages, ensure they are easy to clean and maintain. If you’re starting with a large stock and have limited space, you can use tier cages. However, ensure the rabbit waste from the upper cages does not fall directly into the lower cages.

Tips for constructing and maintaining your cages

Here are tips to follow when constructing and maintaining your cages.

• Use materials of good quality, as they last longer, saving you the cost of unnecessary repairs.
• Avoid leaving open corners where your rabbits may fall out. Ensure your wire is strong and thick so they don’t gnaw through it.
• Ensure your floor is “self-cleaning” so waste can easily pass through.
• Allow sufficient ventilation to prevent respiratory issues or heat stress.
• Avoid leaving tight corners to avoid waste accumulation.

Feeders

You can make your feeders with locally available materials or buy them from the supply store. 

Here are different designs of feeders, both commercial and DIY.

When selecting and placing your feeders, consider these valuable tips.

• Feeders should be made of strong materials and securely placed
• Keep them in an accessible place where the rabbits cannot urinate or defecate on them.
• Place them further from the waterers so that no water gets in them.

Waterers

You can use your own materials to make the water containers or buy automatic waterers with nipples. Automatic waterers are ideal for large stocks and are mounted onto PVC piping.

Ensure they are securely placed so the rabbits do not toss them around and to avoid spillage.

Nesting Equipment

This is where a pregnant doe kindles. It is mostly made out of wood and has dimensions of 18″ * 12″ * 12″. Ensure you have a nest box for every breeding doe and thoroughly sanitize it. You can either leave it open or close it up, but keep a 2-inch lip to prevent the kits from rolling to the cage floor. 

Feeding Rabbits for Meat

The most effective and easiest approach to feeding our rabbits for meat is to use commercial rabbit pellets and hay. Manufactured pellets have a complete formulation, so you won’t need to give any additional supplements, such as proteins or salt. However, ensure you source from a reputable feed company.

Since you’re doing rabbit farming for meat, resist the temptation of feeding less expensive hay grain or garden or kitchen waste. This poor-quality diet results in lower rabbit reproduction and growth. Consider quality over quantity, as this is the determining factor in getting the desired results.

With that in mind, giving your rabbits small amounts of fresh feed, such as a carrot or wilted sweet potato vines, doesn’t harm. This may help stimulate the rabbit’s appetite and promote their gentle behavior.

How Much Pellets to Feed Your Rabbits Daily

On average, 100 grams of commercial rabbit pellets per day is ideal for an adult rabbit. This amount provides enough protein, fiber, and energy for maintenance and healthy growth.

Adjustments Based on Purpose:

• Growing kits (4–12 weeks): Start with 50g and gradually increase to 100g/day.
• Breeding does (pregnant or nursing): 150g–200g/day to meet higher nutritional needs.
• Bucks and non-breeding adults: Maintain at 100g/day.
• Meat rabbits: For fast weight gain, you can increase slightly up to 120g/day, depending on the breed and pellet formulation.

Here are useful tips when feeding rabbits for meat

• Feed them early mornings and late evenings
• Feed rabbits wilted grass to prevent diarrhea
• Give rabbits fresh pellets daily and avoid leaving them overnight to prevent attracting rats. Instead, give hay overnight.
• If you need to change feeds, do it gradually over 2 weeks

Health Management of Rabbits for Meat

Rabbits do not require routine vaccination like other livestock. Proper feeding, housing, and management ensure their general health. However, note the early signs of diseases and treat them correctly.

Let’s look at some of the major rabbit diseases.

Digestive Disorders

Digestive issues are common in rabbits, particularly among newly weaned rabbits, and can lead to serious health problems if not properly managed.

Causes of digestive disorders

• Irregular feeding patterns in young rabbits who are still adjusting to solid food.
• Sudden diet changes, especially switching to feeds high in grains.
• Coccidiosis, a parasitic infection, which can cause diarrhea and is often identified by small white spots on the liver during post-mortem.

Prevention and control

• Maintain consistent feeding routines, especially for weanlings.
• Avoid abrupt changes in diet; introduce new feeds gradually.
• Clean cages daily to reduce the risk of infection and contamination.
• At the first signs of an outbreak, administer commercial anti-coccidial medication as advised by a vet or feed supplier.

Pasteurellosis (Snuffles)

Pasteurellosis, commonly known as snuffles, is a contagious respiratory disease in rabbits that can lead to Pneumonia if left untreated.

Causes and risk factors

• Overcrowded housing conditions
• Poor ventilation
• High ammonia levels from urine, which irritate the respiratory tract

Symptoms

• Sneezing
• Nasal discharge
• Labored breathing in severe cases

Management and prevention:

• Although there is no complete cure, antibiotics can help manage the infection.
• Maintain good ventilation in rabbit housing to prevent the buildup of ammonia.
• Avoid overcrowding.
• Cull severely affected rabbits to prevent the spread of the disease.

Parasites in Rabbits

Rabbits are susceptible to both external and internal parasites, with mites and protozoa being the most common.

Types of parasites

• Mites: Cause ear and skin mange, leading to itching, scabbing, and discomfort.
• Protozoa: Cause liver coccidiosis, an internal parasitic infection that can be fatal if untreated.

Prevention and control

• Maintain strict hygiene by cleaning cages and equipment regularly.
• For mites, apply a few drops of oil (e.g., mineral or vegetable oil) on the affected areas to suffocate them.
• Treat all adult rabbits simultaneously to prevent re-infestation.
• Use commercial mite treatments or veterinarian-prescribed medications for more effective results.

Sore Hocks

Sore hocks, also known as pododermatitis, occur when the fur on the bottom of a rabbit’s feet wears away, exposing the skin to injury from wire flooring.

Causes

• Little or no fur on the hocks (often genetic)
• Nervous stomping behavior
• Overweight rabbits placing excess pressure on their feet
• Continuous contact with rough or wire flooring

Consequences

• Open sores on the hocks
• Risk of infection
• Pain, reduced movement, and stress

Prevention and Management:

• Inspect hocks regularly for early signs of irritation.
• Use resting boards or mats in cages to reduce contact with wire.
• Keep cages clean and dry to avoid infection.
• In severe cases where infection has set in and the rabbit is suffering, culling may be necessary, as treatment is often difficult and costly.

Butchering and Processing

So, you’ve raised your rabbits well; fed them, kept them healthy, and now it’s time for the final step: butchering. While it can feel intimidating at first, once you learn the proper process, it becomes a straightforward task that ensures you get clean, quality meat.

When Is the Right Time to Slaughter?

Most rabbits for meat breeds, such as New Zealand Whites and Californians, reach slaughter weight between 12 and 16 weeks of age. At this point, they weigh around 2.5 to 3 kg, and their meat is still tender. Waiting too long means the meat becomes tougher, and they consume more feed, which cuts into your profits.

Preparing for Butchering

Here’s what to do before the actual slaughter:

• Withhold feed for 12 hours beforehand. This empties their digestive system, making the process cleaner.
• Make sure you have clean tools, including:
  
  • A sharp knife
  • Clean buckets
  • A hanging setup or table
  • Running water, if possible
• Wear clean clothing and gloves to maintain hygiene.

The Slaughter Process

There are several humane methods for slaughtering rabbits for meat. One of the most common methods is:

• Stun the rabbit quickly and calmly (e.g., using a blunt object or a mechanical stunner).
• Hang the rabbit by its hind legs using a hook or a strong wire.
• Make a swift cut to the throat or the arteries behind the jaw to bleed it out.
• Once the rabbit is fully bled, begin skinning and gutting.

Skinning and Gutting

• Start skinning from the hind legs, gently pulling the skin down like removing a shirt.
• Carefully open the abdomen and remove internal organs.
• Separate edible organs, such as the liver, kidneys, and heart, are nutritious and often sold separately.
• Rinse the carcass thoroughly in clean water.

Storage and Preservation

• Let the meat rest and cool in a clean container or the refrigerator before cooking or storing it for later use.
• If you plan to sell, package the meat in clear, food-grade plastic bags, label it, and freeze it as soon as possible.

Conclusion

Raising rabbits for meat is a journey built on care, consistency, and smart choices. With the right breeds, proper feeding, and good housing, even a small setup can turn into a reliable source of income and food security. It’s not about rushing, it’s about learning as you go, staying committed, and growing with purpose.

At Rabbit Choice Farms, we understand that every successful farm starts with the right foundation. That’s why we offer more than just rabbits. We provide guidance, training, and ongoing support to help you achieve success. If you’re considering getting started or want to improve your current setup, we invite you to explore our Become a Farmer program.

You can also contact us today with any inquiries you may have.